Muxía to Santiago via Finisterre: the Camino in reverse from the End of the World
This route turns the traditional pilgrimage around. Instead of ending at the ocean, you begin at the ocean. You start in Muxía on the wild Costa da Morte, follow the Atlantic coast to Cape Finisterre, and then walk east across inland Galicia to finish at the Cathedral of Santiago. It covers the full Camino Finisterre–Muxía, about 115 km, walked in seven stages. You get a week of sea cliffs, beaches, fishing towns, granite villages, river valleys and forest, and the walk ends with a real arrival in Santiago.
This walk qualifies for the “Compostela” on arrival in Santiago.
What is included:
- An english speaking guide that will walk with you every day of the walk.
- Transportation Santiago to Muxía
- 7 nights of lodging (Muxía – Lires – Finisterre – Cee – Mazaricos – Negreira – Santiago). All private room with private bath.
- Feel free to leave your suitcase/luggage that you are not going to bring on the Camino at our luggage storage room at our office. No extra cost.
- Daily luggage transfer included (optional). If you would like to have a bag transported day by day on the Camino, we can set this up. This is optional.
Price: € 1400,- (per person)
Day 0 – Travel to Muxía from Santiago
- You will meet Mark (your guide) and the rest of the group at the Casa Ivar office in Santiago old town (200m from the cathedral).
- You will get your credential for you walk
- The van will come and pick you up and drive everyone from Santiago to Muxía. Departure time to be determined later, but most likely in the afternoon.
Day 1 – Muxía to Lires (about 15km)
Distance: about 14–15 km, which takes most walkers 4 to 5 hours at a relaxed pace.
General character
This is a gentle, varied opening stage and a good introduction to the Costa da Morte. You leave Muxía with the Atlantic behind you and head inland on quiet country lanes, forest tracks and old paths lined with stone walls. The first highlight comes early: the 12th-century Romanesque church of San Xulián de Moraime, which once belonged to one of the most important Benedictine monasteries on the coast. After that, the route winds through small farming hamlets such as Morquintián and Frixe, past hórreos (traditional granaries), cornfields and eucalyptus and pine woodland. It is peaceful and rural, you won’t see much traffic, and there are occasional glimpses of the sea before you drop down towards the Lires estuary.
The destination: Lires
Lires is a tiny, tranquil village where the Castro river meets the ocean at the Ría de Lires. The estuary is a good spot for birdwatching. Two beaches are within easy walking distance. Nemiña is wide, wild and popular with surfers. Lires beach is at the mouth of the ría and is sheltered and scenic. The village has a few rural guesthouses and a couple of restaurants known for fresh local seafood. Lires has no shops or nightlife, which suits the calm, end-of-the-world atmosphere of this coast. Watching the sunset over the beach is a lovely way to finish the first day.
Difficulty: Easy to moderate
The stage has a few rolling ups and downs but no long or steep climbs. The paths are in good condition and the distance is short. Services along the way are very limited, so walkers should carry water and a snack. Most people with basic walking fitness will find it comfortable.
Day 2 – Lires to Finisterre (about 14km)
Distance: about 14 km to Fisterra town, which takes 4 to 5 hours. Most walkers also make the 3.5 km trip each way out to Cape Finisterre, usually in the evening for sunset.
General character
This stage runs from one coast to the other, crossing the neck of the Fisterra peninsula. It starts by crossing the Castro river just outside Lires, then continues inland through quiet hamlets, green farmland and long stretches of pine and eucalyptus forest. The middle section includes the stage’s main climb, a steady ascent through woodland to high ground with wide views across the Costa da Morte. The route then passes San Martiño de Duio, which local legend links to the lost city of Dugium, said to have been swallowed by the sea. The final descent is the most rewarding part, with the Fisterra bay, the harbour and Monte Facho opening up ahead as you walk down to the sea.
The destination: Fisterra
Fisterra is a lively fishing town and the symbolic end of the Camino. The harbour is worth a stroll, and the fish auction (lonxa) shows how central the sea still is to local life. The 17th-century Castelo de San Carlos now houses a fishing museum. On the way out to the cape you pass the Romanesque church of Santa María das Areas, home of the venerated Santo Cristo de Fisterra. At Cape Finisterre you’ll find the lighthouse, the 0.000 km waymark and the famous Atlantic sunset. For centuries this spot was believed to be the edge of the known world, and legends of the pre-Christian sun altar Ara Solis are tied to Monte Facho above it. Nearby beaches include the sheltered Langosteira and the wild, open Mar de Fóra. Fisterra has a good choice of accommodation, and its restaurants serve excellent fresh seafood. Pilgrims can also collect the Fisterrana certificate here.
Difficulty: Moderate
The distance is short, but there is one sustained climb in the middle of the stage and a fairly steep descent into Fisterra. The paths are mostly good forest tracks and minor roads. There are almost no cafés or shops between Lires and the outskirts of Fisterra, so walkers should carry water and food. Anyone who walks out to the cape should allow for the extra 7 km return, or take a taxi back.
Day 3 – Finisterre to Cee (13km)
Distance: about 13 km, which takes 3.5 to 4.5 hours.
General character
This is a short, scenic coastal stage following the eastern side of the Fisterra peninsula around the bay of Corcubión. It starts with a walk along Langosteira, a long sweep of sand that is one of the most beautiful beaches on the Costa da Morte. The route then continues through the seaside village of Sardiñeiro and climbs over the wooded headlands between small coves. Estorde beach, with its clear turquoise water, is a good spot for a break. Some short sections follow or run beside the coastal road, but most of the walk combines forest paths, sea views and fishing villages. The highlight comes near the end: the historic town of Corcubión, whose stone-built old quarter of narrow streets, glassed-in galleries, noble houses and the church of San Marcos is protected as a historic ensemble. From Corcubión, a short waterfront walk leads into Cee.
The destination: Cee
Cee is the largest town on the route and the main service centre of the area, with supermarkets, pharmacies, ATMs and a good choice of accommodation and restaurants. It has a pleasant seafront promenade and the town beach, Praia da Concha. The town is also known for the Fundación Fernando Blanco, a 19th-century school building founded by a local emigrant who became wealthy in Cuba and paid for it. It remains one of the town’s landmarks. Cee is well placed for a side trip to the Ézaro waterfall, about 10 km away, where the Xallas river falls straight into the sea beneath the granite mass of Monte Pindo. It is a good place for a rest afternoon before the long inland stage that follows.
Difficulty: Easy to moderate
The distance is short and the terrain is gentle. There are a few short climbs over the headlands but nothing sustained. Walkers need to take some care on the stretches near the road. Cafés and shops are available in Sardiñeiro, Corcubión and Cee, so this is the easiest stage of the week for services.
Day 4 – Cee to Mazaricos (about 30km)
Distance: about 30 km to the Santa Mariña / A Picota area of Mazaricos, which takes 8 to 9 hours. This is the longest stage of the route.
General character
This stage leaves the coast behind and takes you into Galicia’s rural interior. It starts with the hardest climb of the week, a steep, steady ascent out of Cee. As you climb, the views open up behind you across the bay of Corcubión and the Fisterra peninsula, which is a fine last look at the Atlantic. At the top you reach Hospital, where the Camino divides between the Fisterra and Muxía branches, marked by a waymark stone. The route then crosses high, open moorland of heather, gorse and pine plantations dotted with wind turbines. It is exposed, remote and quiet, with wide views over hills and valleys. After a long descent you reach the valley of the Xallas river and the village of Olveiroa, one of the most attractive traditional villages on the route. Its stone houses and many hórreos are well preserved. The final section passes through farmland, small hamlets and woodland under the slopes of Monte Aro before reaching Mazaricos.
The destination: Mazaricos
Mazaricos is a rural municipality of scattered parishes and farming villages in the heart of the Xallas region. Dairy farming, green pastures and stone granaries shape the landscape. The walker’s stop is usually Santa Mariña or the municipal centre of A Picota, both of which have a few guesthouses, bars and small shops. The surroundings are known for Monte Aro, an ancient hillfort site with panoramic views, and the Fervenza reservoir. Mazaricos is far from tourist crowds, and it offers a real taste of everyday life in inland Galicia, with simple, hearty local food and a slow pace.
Difficulty: Challenging
This stage combines the longest distance of the week with a steep opening climb and long exposed stretches that give little shelter from sun, wind or rain. Services are very scarce between Hospital and Olveiroa, a gap of about 10 km, so walkers must carry enough water and food. Walkers with good fitness will manage the full stage, but splitting it at Olveiroa makes it moderate and much more enjoyable.
Day 5 – Mazaricos to Negreira (about 21km)
Distance: about 21 km, which takes 5.5 to 6.5 hours.
General character
This is a pleasant, pastoral stage through the rolling countryside between the Xallas and Tambre valleys. After the wild moorland of the previous day, the landscape here is softer and greener, a patchwork of pastures, maize fields and small family farms linked by quiet country lanes and old stone-walled paths. You pass through a string of small villages such as Maroñas, Cornado and Vilaserío, each with its hórreos, stone crosses and parish churches. There are long stretches through shady woodland of oak, chestnut and pine. The slopes of Monte Aro stay in view for much of the morning. The terrain rises and falls gently for most of the day, and it ends with a descent through the hamlet of Zas into the Barcala river valley and Negreira.
The destination: Negreira
Negreira is a friendly market town and the last overnight stop before Santiago. It has full services, including supermarkets, pharmacies, banks, cafés and a good choice of places to stay and eat. Its best-known monument is the Pazo do Cotón, a fortified manor house whose arch spans the Camino as you enter the town, next to the chapel of San Mauro. The town also has a monument to Galician emigrants, a reminder of the many families from this area who sought their fortune abroad. The riverside paths along the Barcala are nice for an evening stroll, and the medieval bridge and village of Ponte Maceira, one of the most beautiful spots in Galicia, lie only a short distance ahead on the next day’s route.
Difficulty: Moderate
The distance is manageable and the terrain is mostly gentle and undulating. There are a few short climbs and a steady descent at the end of the day. The paths are good country lanes and forest tracks. Services along the way are limited to a few bars in the villages, so walkers should carry water and a snack.
Day 6 – Negreira to Santiago (about 21km)
Distance: about 21 km, which takes 5.5 to 6.5 hours.
General character
The final stage has a lot of variety and a strong sense of arrival. Less than an hour after leaving Negreira you reach Ponte Maceira, one of the loveliest spots in Galicia and a member of the association of Spain’s most beautiful villages. Its elegant medieval bridge arches over the Tambre river beside old mills, a weir, a chapel and a stately pazo, and it is a perfect place for a morning coffee. The route then follows the river valley through farmland and woodland before climbing steadily to the Alto do Mar de Ovellas, the last real climb of the Camino. From the top, a steep descent leads down to the village of Augapesada and its old stone bridge. The rest of the walk is gentle, crossing the rural parishes of Ames on country lanes and woodland paths. You reach the green valley of the Sarela river and catch your first views of the cathedral towers rising above the city. The Camino enters Santiago through the quiet streets of the old town and finishes at the magnificent Praza do Obradoiro.
The destination: Santiago de Compostela
Santiago is one of the great pilgrimage cities of the world, and its historic centre is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The cathedral, built over the tomb of Saint James, is the heart of the city. Highlights include the Baroque Obradoiro façade, the Romanesque Pórtico da Gloria, the crypt with the apostle’s relics, and the tradition of embracing the statue of Saint James. The Pilgrim’s Mass is held daily, and on some occasions the giant censer, the botafumeiro, swings across the transept. Pilgrims can collect their Compostela at the Pilgrim Office. Beyond the cathedral, the granite streets and arcades of the old town are made for wandering, and the Mercado de Abastos shows off Galicia’s produce and seafood. The Alameda park offers one of the best views of the cathedral at sunset. This route began at the ocean and ends here, which gives the final arrival a special meaning.
Difficulty: Moderate
The distance is manageable. The main effort is the climb to Alto do Mar de Ovellas and the steep descent that follows, which is hard on the knees. The rest of the stage is easy walking. Services are better than on the inland stages, with cafés at Ponte Maceira and in the villages of Ames, and more options as you approach the city.